Timing belt changing write up with some pictures

Reply 1 : Timing belt changing write up with some pictures

Dr J thanks for all the great tips and insight. So can you tell me where to start from scratch on setting up the timing phasing if the belt has jumped time? I got under the bottom cover today tp discover that the belt was loose because the stationary idler pulley bearing was distroyed. The balls and pieces of the bearing were laying at the bottom. I will also check my other post. Thanks.

Reply 2 : Timing belt changing write up with some pictures

If the car suddenly began to run poorly (rough idle warm, lack of power) the belt is most likely jumped the timing.

if no symptoms like that were experienced, and the belt is still on the pulleys you may do the following:

match mark belt to the crank and cam pulleys (and cam pulley to the cover #3; do not worry about timing marks at this point)

remove the old belt

Remove the broken idler roller and install new one instead

install the old belt

erase marks

place the engine in TDC cylinder 1 compression stroke and align CAMsprocket to the bearing notch mark

Then check position of the crank shaft sprocket (round mark at the bottom opposite to key way-yellow dot on the photo)

if the mark on the crank is past (in clockwise) direction the cast boss on the oil pump cover (another yellow dot), the cam is timing is retarded if so

mark the cam sprocket relative to the cover number 3

mark the belt relative to the cam and crank sprocket

then count number of teeth the timing is off (one tooth in most cases)

place random mark on the new belt

remove the old belt

place belts next to each other and line up the marks

THEN place the second mark on the new belt that it is closer to the first mark on the new belt by one tooth (or the number of teeth the belt jumped) as compared to the old belt

(for example there were 36 teeth between the marks on the jumped belt and the belt jumped 1 tooth so on the new belt you will have 36-1 = 35 teeth [numbers are random])